Unfortunately they have removed their realistically priced Locost chassis plans from sale due to the high cost of public liability and professional indemnity. It seems that 3 years ago Vodou freely published as set of plans, for a Miata based build, however it looks like they are not around anymore. There are plans circulating around for several different sized frames. This can be confusing. “Book” frame refers to the frame in Ron Champion’s.
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I haven’t detailed the build process in this section as the many photos on this site describe how it developed. Instead I decided to build the chassis in 1 to 10 scale. The reality was that the process is far from simple and there are many decisions to be made along the way and problems to overcome.
The increased width exists through the rear and the cockpit, while the llcost end is based on the book chassis and it uses a standard nosecone. The chassis plans on this site are based on the original Locost design presented in Ron Champion’s book.
I ignored the problems on the rear side, and continued with the transmission tunnel, built from 2. Concluding the construction of the space frame were six diagonals in the kocost.
Another error involves the floor panel. The increased height goes through the horizontal llans of the chassis forward of the dashboard to balance the over all design and accommodate taller engines. Fri Dec 01, 1: I planns been browsing for a while, and am excited to start my build.
Scratchbuilt 1/10 scale Locost chassis
As you can see, I had started base-coating the model too, using Humbrolin search of building defects. I might try splitting it into smaller files Bill. Making 17 of them was a tedious job, no fun at all.
Considering the daunting masking job inside the cabin to correct this, I will most likely leave the model this way. Page 1 of 1. Generally I managed to build the chassis within 0.
Locost chassis build
I used a JLC saw to cut some connections, and realign some tubes to square the chassis. A standard book nosecone leaves a 5″ gap along the bottom of this super-sized chassis, but the width is spot-on. Here are the wishbones. Even cleaning the airbrush was almost too long a delay!
This oversized nosecone is still available from certain vendors. Also, I shouldn’t have base-coated the model in grey paint, since its roughness showed, especially inside the passenger compartment, where the overspray settled down as dust particles. Jay Dagless 8th scale Porsche with a full frame.
The keen observer will spot that the tunnel is not symmetrical at the front and rear, since it was specifically designed to accomodate the Ford Escort Mark 2 drive train. I used an old tin that had thickened and needed thinning, and a fresh tin that was really thin. So take a look at the photo albums and follow my project as it grew into a home built, road registered sports car.
• View topic – Which plans? Will I fit in it?
Standard front wishbones should bolt right up assuming the track width of the donor axle is exactly 4″ greater than the UK based Ford Escort Mk1 the book donor. It explains most but not all of the process, but nevertheless it’s very inspiring. The top was 20mm chipboard with 90mm x 30mm pine supports glued on the long edges and a steel tube frame underneath.
I purchased a complete Mazda MX5 NC as my donor vehicle and a selection of steel tubing, I was then ready to begin the process. I liked the chassis in bare white plastic, but I thought it would look even better in Humbrol’s Polished Steel.
First up I built a solid timber table with steel legs to provide the level surface required for the space-frame construction, which also gave me a chance to practice my cutting and welding skills before launching into the serious construction stuff.
The missing triangulating members were simply too difficult to model with the computer. You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot post attachments in this forum. There are some vendors manufacturing nosecones that are taller than the book design to provide even more height for the engine.
I bought four meters of 2. The increased length provides an locoet two inches for the pedal box and another two inches in the engine bay. And I found out that the instructions for the longitudinal position of the front suspension brackets is completely missing in the book, which must play havoc with the castor angles of the real thing – unbelievable!
Build time so far was in the order of 12 hours. Therefore I should not have painted the chassis steel colour overall. Using the drawings and instructions in Ron Champion’s book, I went to work. The last part of skinning that I added was the rear bulkhead, despite the rear end still being unfinished.
I wanted to preserve some of the floppiness of the sheet metal, hence this thin gauge. Mon Dec 31, 8: Details of the transmission tunnel, suspension brackets, and triangulating strength members pland not provided in any of these drawing packages. Thanks in advance, and happy locosting!!! There is actually 2 parts to the plans.
Martin Aveyard balsa frame for a car of his own design, and the finished balsa frame. I used various improvised tools to jig the parts, like Lego blocks, steel blocks and plastic card. I cut away the paneling below the prop shaft, whereas the book doesn’t.